Phare, the Cambodian circus
Under a big top, young artists trained at the Phare Ponleu Selpak school in Battambang tell Cambodian stories with acrobatics, live music, dance and theatre. An hour of energy, and the money goes back to the school. Book a day or two ahead in high season.
Apsara dance
The classical dance of the Khmer court, recognised by UNESCO, with its slow, precise hand movements and golden costumes. The apsaras are the celestial dancers you see carved on the walls of Angkor Wat. Several restaurants in town present it in the evening, with dinner.

Shadow theatre
Sbek thom, the great shadow theatre, uses large leather puppets moved in front of a fire or a lit screen, to the music of a pinpeat orchestra. It tells stories from the Reamker, the Khmer Ramayana. Sbek touch, or ayang, uses smaller puppets and funnier stories. Performances are not every night: ask us what is on.
Museums and visits
- Angkor National Museum: the history of the empire and its statues, a good start before the temples, and air-conditioned.
- APOPO: the rats trained to find landmines, and the story of how Cambodia clears its land.
- Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity: rare animals of Cambodia rescued and cared for, at the foot of Phnom Kulen. Guided visits only, to book in advance.
Photos: Kimm / Unsplash